Lousiana Encounters

I am definitely in the south and definitely in Lousiana, the accent is soft but present with everyone white is not the majority and people are friendly, sometimes its a little creepy.  Monday, May 30th I got into Baton Rouge around 8pm. This was the bridge I took to cross over the Mississippi it was sunset and the light was gorgeous.

 I wanted to go see downtown.  So I drove to downtown, it was practically empty, a little freaky. I got a couple shots of the Old State Capitol and the current State Capital (below).

While taking the above pic a lady walked up to me, at first I wondered if she was homeless but I think she was a cleaner at the capital.  She told me about the governor (Huey Long) who built the capital and four years laters was assessinated in it.  He had presidential aspirations and ideas some wealthy people did not like.  It was an interesting conversation and I was glad she had approached me.  Then I got back to my motel and was unloading stuff and a guy in a truck pulled around to my side of the building and waved me down but didn't really say anything, so I just ignored him.  I had to go down to get a few more things and he came up to me and said hi.  He then apologized because I wasn't the person he thought I was but he kept staring in this weird creepy way.  And I don't know when he saw me because I watched him slowly drive away, stop in a nearby parking lot and then leave, so he wasn't staying at the motel.  Creepy.  Last encounter of the night: I went to the lobby to get hot water for my cup-o-noodles and the attendant (black) and two guys (also black) were in there.  One of the guys leaves and the girl says, he was cute huh? I agreed because he was, but she said he was only 18 and she doesn't date younger guys and then the other guy says, "I thought you didn't date red guys either?"  And she agreed with him.  Then I left.  I'm still unsure what "red" means, I thought that was used for native americans and he was definitely black to me.  So I guess they are definitely colored in the south, more then I knew about.

Tuesday I got up and saw the new capital again and this time went inside.

Here is the grave of Huey Long, he was buried right in front of his capitol.

Inside the capital entry was gorgeous and very ornate, it was finished in 1931. Below is part of the ceiling of the House of Representatives hall.  It is 12in square tiles, made from sugarcane!  They were hand painted so they looked like tapestry, which they did.

Here is me outside the Old Capital, it was smaller and reminded me of a medieval castle.  But it was also very pretty, and ornate in the entry with a grand spiral stair case, though the Senate and Rep chambers were much more simple. 

Here is the stained glass ceiling of the entry way of the Old Capitol.

They also had an exhibit about Huey Long and his assesination, with all the bad people in politics here is Louisiana, I'm a bit surprised this one killing has so much attention almost 80 years later.  He was killed in 1935 with they thought this 32.  At least the guy the body guards shot had this on him.  But years later with forensic testing of the bullet from Huey and a bullet shot from this gun, they found the bullet in Huey Long was actually a 38 and not from this gun.  So it is unsure if he was assessinated or caught in the line of fire from his bodyguards.

Then on my way out of Louisiana I stopped to see the LDS temple.  It was very small and very beautiful.

While trying to get a shot of the sign and my face a guy pulled up and got off the phone with what sounded like his wife to offer to take my picture. I of course accepted and found out he was going to be fixing their sprinkler system.  I find this interesting that they have a sprinkler system since its wet EVERYWHERE here and swamps and the river are so near.  They say they are actually in a big drought right now, but it does not appear dry to me, still a lot greener then anything in Arizona.

On the road to New Orleans I stopped to see one of many plantations.  Laura's plantation was about the Creole culture and plantation life. So I got double the information. When the U.S. bought Louisiana it was french speaking and living. Creole is french and spanish descent and sometimes with native american heritage.  Before the Purchase Creole's had painted their homes with numerous bright colors. The white people only used one color and it was usually white.  Creole's did business and family were completely intertwined and everyone worked who lived on the planation and every family member had a right to their share of the planatation.

This is the basement (first floor) of the house.  This is a picture of Elizabeth, Laura's grandmother and when she was 19 she married a french guy and made him sign a pre-nup clearly stating that everything he owned was hers and everything she owned remained hers. He happened to own a winery in Bordeoux France, so she doubled her wealth when they were married and on top of the sugarcane planation she ran, she imported and sold his wine. Smart girl.  Also the big jars were their fridges. Ground water is 47 degrees and there is plenty of that, so they would dig holes and put them in up to the lip of the barrel and store things in there to keep cool. Really ingenious I thought.

And when I said family and business were intertwined, this is the entryway of the house, the bedroom.  In Creole country girls had just as many rights as the men and property at the time was owned equally by men and women. But if you were coming to see the man you'd enter the downriver bedroom and if you were coming to see the woman you'd enter the upriver bedroom.  The front entry was simply for pets and windflow.

Slaves were given a 16x16 room to live in w/ their family, then after the Civil War the porch was enclosed in and through that doorway is their second room.

The plantation tour was absolutely fascinating and I learned a lot. Then I drove into New Orleans. Now in most places a balcony is anything protruding out upstairs that you can step out on.  In Louisiana the below picture is a proper balcony.  It only comes half way over the sidewalk and is fully supported by the building.

Below is a galleria, it is supported by pillars and covers all of the sidewalk. Now you know. 

This and other interesting facts, I learned on my ghosts and legends walking tour last night through the French Quarter.  Historical facts, with now supposed hauntings and legends that have arisen. Both the plantation guide and this tour guide were not just guides they were entertainers, they acted out their stories.  It was great.  Below is a picture of what people refer to as a Romeo catcher.  Spikes surrounding the top of the pillar to prevent people from coming in to steal or boys coming into get their daughters. And yes there was a gruesome story of a young 'romeo' trying to escape the girls bedroom and getting ripped up on one of these and supposedly now haunts the spot.

All over the French Quarter they still have gas burning lights.  Actual fire, not just cheap flamed shaped bulbs.  It was really unique and added to the effect of the French Quarter.

Here is another legend, that a Spanish general out-lawed alcohol in New Orleans and there began a drunken street party and the entire unarmed party without firing a shot sent that general and his few men packing.  Then a new general arrived with 2,000 men of a city of 3,200. Drinking was allowed but five men who had killed on Spanish soldier were found and hung in the square (now called Jeffereson square) and informed there would be no last rights and no burial. For a very Catholic group, this meant purgatory and so the priest went to the general to plead for a burial and he said no.  Well supposedly the priest prayed for two weeks and suddenly a tropical storm came and the Spanish left their posts. The priest with 70 of the five men's families cleaned and dressed the bodies.  Their last rights were given and then they walked out onto the street and down this alley next to St.Josephs. They were supposed to remain quiet but one began to sing a funeral song (sorry can't remember the name) and one-by-one everyone joined with the Priest leading the group all the way to the cemetery.  Story has that not a single person heard or saw this group as they proceeded throught the streets that day. Now on nights when it rains as you walk down this alley/street supposedly you will hear the one voice begin and by the end the voices of 70 singing that song. This one was far less gruesome and creepy then the other stories and I kind of liked it. I also love this picture of the street because it seems haunted.

After the tour I stopped at Gumbo Shop and got a full Creole dinner. The bartender was super nice and helped me pick the items I got, and after eating it all I'm really glad he helped me. It was a great experience. He also gave me a place to go today for a po-boy and crawfish. So my dinner consisted of Chicken Andouille Gumbo (top middle container) it was a bit too salty for me, with more rice it would probably be perfect. Then shrimp creole (bottom right puddle on the plate) it was very strong sea taste, and my least favorite. Then jambalaya (left on the plate) this was DELICIOUS. As was the red beans & rice (top right bowl) and the Macque Choux corn (top left bowl).  The corn is stewed corn with onions, peppers, and tomatoes. Everything but the red beans and rice was spicy.  The corn was sweet and spicy. It was super good. Also it came with dessert and I like chocolate but its not my go to item. But this brownie nuts and SMOTHERED in thick chocolate sauce (far left) was AMAZING. Seriously the BEST brownie I have EVER had.

I wanted to try all the foods while here and since I'm leaving this morning, I figured I'd also get a beignet too.  So I walked down to Cafe Dumond, one of the oldest coffee stands in New Orleans. And the beignet was delicious. I got a box mix to bring home and try to make myself. It was an exhausting day, a lot of walking and a lot of heat. The French Quarters were especially smelly and humid with no wind. Almost everywhere I've been has some kind of breeze but with the buildings all so close, it was just kind of gross.  And at one point on the tour a girl threw away the rest of her margarita and it splashed on my leg, guess its just part of the French Quarter experience. I thoroughly showered last night. I am behind schedule a bit and so am off, to try and make up time.